Getting Into the Groove of Ghana!

           Almost a month after feeling the initial heatwave of West Africa, I am finally gaining some independence and am establishing a routine. The little Twi I knew before my arrival is now evolving into legit conversations with the locals, the mandatory class activities outside of lectures are starting, and I’m now able to navigate the streets to my internship alone. Progress is progress! I'm still in a state where I'm constantly wondering what I'll learn next, and I love that too.

          One of my favorite parts about going to a different part of the world is the opportunity to experience nature differently. My time in France and Colorado gifted me with some pretty awesome shots with picturesque, snow-topped mountains in the backgrounds. Not only did I go to the beach for the fourth time in three weeks this past weekend, but I also took my very first surfing lesson! The fact that I put more than my feet in the water is an accomplishment itself. I normally don’t immerse myself unless I can clearly see the bottom. (Lake swimming at summer camp was an absolute no all those years.) By the end of my one-hour lesson, I had successfully caught a few waves on my stomach and was learning how to stand. I think my personal best was teeter-tottering for a total of two seconds before falling into the ocean. Each splash into the water felt as if I had taken the Morton’s salt container out of my grandma’s cupboard and was just pouring it down my throat and shoving it up my nose. The intensity of the waves also made it difficult to even position my surfboard. Very close to the shore, I could still feel the sand vanishing beneath my feet as the tide tried to pull me into the ocean until a wave from the other direction pushed me back to shore. Surfing is a tough sport that requires impeccable timing and quick, flexible movements, but it was one of the coolest experiences I’ve had so far!

           Though I wouldn't typically describe myself as a kid person, all of that changed this Sunday afternoon. For my Service Learning course, I am required to do a certain number of hours of hands-on local service. Play and Learn is an after-school program that meets right on campus and aims to instill qualities of independence in underprivileged schoolchildren. Some friends and I are assisting with their Mobile Library Program, meaning we just read with the children. I got a seven-year-old girl named Beatrice as my reading partner. She couldn’t read by herself, but I found out that as soon as I started reading, she would follow along with her finger and repeat after me word by word. We picked designated words for her to say, such as “dog” and “car”, and she would say them with glees of excitement each time. Besides the actual reading part, she was fascinated with my Chicago water bottle and loved wearing my West Lafayette drawstring bag (perhaps even more than I do, haha!). The children here are also quick to show their affection. They add "Aunty" onto almost everything they say to us, hold our hands, give us hugs, and run their fingers all over our skin to see how it feels.  Beatrice also practiced my Twi with me and spent a good minute trying to get me to say "Twi" just like her.  Needless to say, I am greatly anticipating seeing the children again this Sunday!

          I also chose to intern at West Africa AIDS Foundation, or WAAF. It fits nicely because Albright is counting my Service Learning as a Public Health requirement.  My decision to intern there has made me more independent because the Ghanaian way to get to WAAF is via the trotro. Vera taught me how to do it step by step and landmark by landmark last week. (Street addresses are uncommon here.)  I usually catch a trotro that's heading towards Madina, Haatso, or Accra. I quickly learned that the mates (assistants to the trotro drivers) are constantly shouting the names of towns out the windows, so it's not hard to know where it is going if you have an idea of Ghanaian geography. Before boarding, I verify with the mate that the trotro will stop where I need to get off, and I remind him of my destination when I pay. Once I get off my first tro tro stop, it usually takes a total of a minute to find another one, and then I’m at my internship within fifteen minutes. On a rare occasion, if no trotros are present at my first stop, I’ll have to cross the street to the station. Then I try to find a full trotro beause if it’s at the station, it won’t leave until it’s full! 

           The trotro station closest to WAAF is like most others. It's a dusty, stony lot that's home to markets, a taxi station, chickens, and any random cars or motorcycles that decide to pass through. As I make a right at the gas station, I walk on a fine line of dust gathered over to the side that serves as a sidewalk. If I feel too crowded or there's a car parked on the street, I simply hop over the open gutter filled with trash and I'm in someone's marketplace. I usually see a chicken with a plastic bag stuck to its feet at least once a day. This past month in Africa has given me the chance to witness some purely gorgeous sights of Ghana and even defeat many stereotypes. However, my ventures even three kilometers outside my safety zone of campus never fail to keep me humble.

           WAAF seems like the perfect fit for me here. People are extremely welcoming, and whenever the website is not functioning correctly, my coworkers and I never fail to find ourselves in a very interesting discussion about our different birthplaces. So far, I’ve worked on data entry for the national website and created a flyer for Hepatitis B prevention. I'm sure it depends on the area and I can't find reliable statistics, but I know enough to say that Hepatitis B is a major concern here and few people know a vaccine exists. I will also be able to conduct my own research project to take back to class, which I hope to start next week. I am so excited for that!

          I also find that mealtimes with Ghanaians are very memorable moments. Not only do they take very seriously the opportunity to sit and relax while eating, but I receive the benefit of actually learning to eat! My tastebuds’ cultural experience this week was bangku, a cousin of fufu. A native would passionately describe the differences to you in a heartbeat, but all I know is that instead of cassava and plantains, the "ball" is made of cornmeal (and probably something else). Just like fufu, it is thrown into a bowl of soup and you eat it with your hands. I don’t think Ghanaians understand the concept of a “smaller portion”. I tried to explain to my friends that as much as I wanted to embrace Ghanaian culture, my stomach would only handle a little bit. I still found myself in front of a massive looking bowl. I sat opposite of my classmate, who instructed me how to eat. She taught me to use my thumb to guide a lump from the "ball” into my four other fingers. Then, I was to soak it into the groundnut (peanut) soup and lean over the bowl as I popped it into my mouth. It probably wouldn’t have been so messy had I learned earlier to put my fingers in my mouth along with the bangku so that I could suck/lick the soup off of them. (Who needs napkins anyway?) Perhaps the hardest part was to swallow it in one shot without chewing. The closest American food I can compare the consistency of bangku to is peanut butter. I can't really compare bangku to anything I've seen or tasted before though. As with most Ghanaian foods, the bangku made my nose run and caused me to reach for my water bottle about every three bites. First times are first times though, and I will go back for more!

         This weekend is one of the more “chill” moments I have. For all I know, I might end up at the beach with some friends again. Other than plans to hang out with my brother Francis, I have a good amount of homework to conquer and a newly purchased Twi dictionary to peruse!

Experience is the Best Teacher

           Long before I was of age to realize it was already a quote, my grandmother instilled the belief in me that experience is the best teacher. I think that simple proverb accounts for a big part of my decision to come to Ghana. It ran through my mind as application duties turned into long nights, immunizations became less than convenient to obtain, and as I stood in line in JFK feeling so unprepared for such a journey. I knew that no matter how much I could learn about Ghana via Google, nothing could replace learning about Ghana from the Ghanaians. Every first time and new piece of knowledge comes with a longing to share it with everyone “back home”, so here is a bit of my new life experiences so far!

The other side of the Atlantic!

 1. The Geography of Ghana 

       

           It is quite an accomplishment that I am not only able to place myself on a map of Ghana but also the regions from which my Ghanaian friends come. Ghana is split up into ten different regions, home to their own people groups and languages. The average Ghanaian speaks between three and six languages. Usually, he/she speaks the language of his/her people group, the local language of Twi, and of course English. That, to me, is amazing! The Akans were the native settlers of Ghana and have descendants in five different regions today – Western, Central, Eastern, Brong Ahafo, and Ashanti. (The Akans also gave us the Twi language.) Anybody from the other regions descends from other parts of Africa. I’ve finally learned/memorized enough to know which buddies are “Gas”, “Ewes”, “Brong Ahafos”, and other people groups I don’t even dare try to spell yet. I met a former buddy the other day who came back to visit with everyone. Once she said she was from the Greater Accra region, I asked if she was a Ga. Her response was, “How did you know? Did Esther teach you all of that?!” Yes, both Rex and Esther very patiently taught me all the ins and outs of a map of Ghana on three different occasions. 

2. The Ghanaian Identification System

           Once you know which region of Ghana a person is from (or even before you know that), you can usually determine which people group he/she comes from based on the dialect/accent of any of the various mutually intelligible languages in Ghana. The next important piece of information is which day of the week the person was born. Each Ghanaian has a name descending from the Twi word. For example, I was born on a Thursday (Yawoada), so I am a “Ya”. Eddie is a “Yaw” because it’s gender dependent. If I understand it correctly, a person’s full name goes day of the week, designated first name, people group, designated last name. No other Ghanaian has that exact same information!  Some Ghanaians use their “birth day” as their first name, but many use it interchangeably with their “English” name. They especially respect that I’m still learning the days of the week and that getting a necklace proudly proclaiming I was born on a Thursday is a new concept for me. I did meet two classmates who introduced themselves as Afia (Friday) and Ama (Saturday) though. Unless I meet another  Afia or Ama in that class, I think I can adapt!                                                                                                                                                                                    3. Where does your mother come from?

           As soon as I thought I knew where all my Ghanaian friends came from, I realized I didn't. Well, I didn't have that information in American terms. That realization struck as I was walking back to my dorm with Richard today. I asked him if his siblings were living in the Volta region, and, understanding my confusion, he specified, "I have never lived in the Volta region." At first, I was confused because that's where he told me he was from. Two seconds later I remembered what my Twi professor taught us. Since Ghana is based on matrilineal succession, Ghanaians refer to where their mother is from when asked where they are from. When Richard told me he was from the Volta region, he was simply saying that his mother is from there. I now know to ask, "Where have you lived" or "Where do you live when you are not at school?" to get the American equivalent. 

4. The African Handshake

           The African handshake is not too different from the one we use in America (and elsewhere). I start off with the normal handshake position, but instead of going up and down, I turn my hand clockwise. Then, I pull my fingers apart from the other person but find his/her middle finger and snap it. It took a lot of practice to master! At the beginning, I either felt I “aggressively” pulled the person’s middle finger while trying to snap it and/or my hands were so sweaty/greasy that I didn’t hear a snap. However, I am happy to say that my buddies educated me well and I can now greet people with an African handshake!

         Now that I am proficient in the handshake, every time I go up to greet the buddies, they either open their arms for a hug or indicate they want a fist bump. As Vera said, any greeting but a kiss is acceptable. “We’re not French,” she added. It’s obvious I’m not from here, so many people go for a normal handshake when I introduce myself. Who knows though until we’re halfway through?! 😉

 5. Socializing in Ghana

             One of the most important pieces of advice I would share with anyone coming to Ghana is to greet people. Greetings are of foremost importance here. I'm not sure what would happen if I greeted people in the United States as often as I do in Ghana. I’m still learning the happy medium, but our program resources pressed us to be sure to greet every person in authority on campus. If you don’t greet someone and you need something, that person has every right in Ghanaian culture to refuse your request for assistance. Some past international students have experienced that misfortune. 

           However, once you greet a Ghanaian, it's usually not too hard to find yourself in a conversation. You'll likely exchange numbers within minutes of meeting the person and get invited over for a visit. It can be a bit disorienting and strange at first because people are a lot more outgoing here than in the United States. Though I'm always on guard, most times, people are not what our program calls "professional friends" and really mean well. Last night, I suggested to a classmate that we go out to the night market for food and then eat at the International Student Hostel. Once we got to the market, she insisted that I was invited to go back to not her room, but her best friend's room. I met her best friend five minutes before! I was treated like royalty and met all of her best friend's roommates. It also gave me an opportunity to practice the introductory phrases I had learned in Twi twelve hours earlier and learn even more! Ghanaians love to practice the language with foreigners and appreciate every effort they put forth to learn it. 

6. The Family Concept

           From the little knowledge I gained about Africa 5,000 + miles away, I always assumed that African society was more inclusive and less individualistic than the United States and France. It’s interesting to see those differences in daily life. In Ghana, it means that everyone around me is either my mother, father, brother, sister, aunty or uncle. “Nua” serves as the Twi word for both “brother” and “sister” and is used for people of similar age, such as my buddies. One of my favorite things to do is say “Me nua, maakye!”. That means “My brother/sister, good morning!” “Maame” and “Agya” is “mother” and “father”. Here, anyone who is related to your mother or father is automatically your mother or father. I guess that means on African terms I have about thirteen mothers and fathers in addition to my biological parents because that’s how many aunts and uncles I have. Wow! Lastly, “aunty” and “uncle” are normally reserved for people not related by blood or marriage. We call our program advisors “aunty”.

          One of my buddies stays with his aunt, uncle, and cousins during his studies because his region of origin is so far away. However, I wouldn’t have known that if I didn’t ask him. When I asked if he lived with his siblings or cousins, he said “They’re both”. I don’t even know how many biological siblings he has. It’s not too hard for me to adapt to this cultural custom though, and I think that’s because I have so many people who played (and still play) a vital role in my life other than my biological parents. I like it!

 7. Personal Space Does Not Exist

           Whether I’m in a car, on a tro tro, with friends, or on my way to class, I've found that personal space is perhaps just as limited as consistent wifi access. I was busy admiring my surroundings at Independence Square with my teammates the other week when I felt an arm extend around my shoulder. Though startled because I was lost in thought, it was one of the buddies just starting up a friendly conversation. Guy friends will link arms and walk hand in hand with girls too. It doesn’t mean any more than, “You’re my sister.” 

           I've also accepted that cars drive closer to each other and people in Ghana than in the United States. I thought my friend was exaggerating when she said that in Ghana, you could literally hand something to another driver. It’s true though. Some guys were even flirting with us the next car over! The closeness is also quite a shock on the first few walks around campus, but I’m used to it now. 

8. Dining Etiquette

           Eating a meal here in Ghana differs not only from the United States and France in spice level but also how you eat your food. Though Ghanaians do often use silverware, there are many Ghanaian dishes where only hands are advised. Yesterday, my American friends and I tried fufu for the first time. Fufu is basically a ball of flour pounded and thrown into a bowl along with a spicy soup (peanut/groundnut, goat, cow, chicken, etc.) The gracious locals saw us struggling and taught us that the index and middle finger is used to “cut” the dough. Then, we are to dip it in the soup before swallowing without chewing. It can get messy, so there is a communal washbowl in the middle of the table. I have yet to master eating soup with only my hands. Halfway through our meal, the cook (and server) offered us spoons. Looking at me, she said, “You’re really trying! Are you sure you don’t want a spoon?” With my newly bought water bottle almost emptied, I politely declined, determined I was going to eat like my Ghanaian friends since I was in Ghana or not at all. 

          As I probably mentioned before, people also only eat with their right hand here. I’m getting good at not using my left hand at all to be on the safe side at meals and when handing people items. It is also culturally polite to offer (and insist nicely) that others eat with you if they approach you at mealtime. This goes for strangers, acquaintances, and friends. Rex gave me some of his kenkey today, which is basically fermented cornmeal. I was so eager to observe how he ate that I forgot he would actually make an effort to share his food. It was good though. Thanks, Rex!

9. My New Walmart

          I'll always remember my first couple trips to the night market. Mangos, coconuts and other fruits were built up like a wall. I watched in fascination as women carried empty tubs on their heads to refill at the well. (That’s something I only saw on video in anthropology class before.) However, when Eddie told me to try to purchase a new laptop charger there, I was tempted to tell him, “I've already checked the Accra Mall, and if they don't have it, a street vendor won't. Let's just take a tro tro to Osu (the next town over)." I followed his advice though, and, needless to say, we didn’t have to go to Osu. 

 10. Stores/Vendors often do not have change.

           One of the first questions I ask when I am ready to buy something "Do you have change?" After a few incidents, I learned that I was not as bad at math as I thought for a second. Ghanaians just often do not have change. One of my favorite snacks here are the frozen yogurt bars called “Fan Yogo”. (It follows my philosophy of “Fruit delights every day keep the adaptation shock at bay.”) When I told the cashier that I only had 10 cedis and it only cost one, she told me to come back later when I had the exact amount. No credit/debit cards are accepted either as most business occurs on the streets. On any other day, it would not have been a big deal. However, I really wanted that Fan Yogo! I’ve learned that Ghanaian friends are great resources for cash exchange 😉

11. The Ghanaian Time Zone

          Although Ghana falls into the Greenwich Time Zone, I like to joke that it is on its own time zone. Let me just say that if you are on a date, I hope you like your partner because you will be at that restaurant for a long time! It can take over an hour to receive food at any given eating place. The “Ghanaian Time Zone” is visible elsewhere too. Professors often come twenty to thirty minutes late to class (if they come at all), and a 15 minute drive to the mall often takes over an hour with traffic. Ghanaians are very patient people, and I hope I will acquire that virtue soon. It's been a true test!

12. The Harmattan Struggle is Real

           Today's forecast (according to my phone weather app) was dust. I've never seen that one before, but again this semester is my first time in Africa. Though the distance between Accra and the Sahara Desert is greater than the distance between my college in Pennsylvania and my loved ones in Indiana, the Sahara still announces its presence during what we call the Harmattan (a cooler name than “dry season”). During the Harmattan, winds from the Sahara bring dust down right to us. It is everywhere. It tickles my nostrils, turns my water brown as I’m washing clothes, and creates a haze that resembles fog. I literally walked into a pile of dust last week while doing a practice run for my courses. I guess one plus side is that it ever so slightly blocks the sun!

13. Who Needs Hot Water?

           I’ll always remember (and laught at) my first shower in Ghana. As I stood there trying to figure out how to turn it on, I had to audibly pep talk myself into taking a cold shower. It was a stretch for me even despite the heatwave. Last week, I graduated from a cold shower to a bucket shower. I realize now that cold water is even a luxury because water outages are so common. Don’t worry! One can buy a bucket for showering as well as drinking water at the night market, and there is a water tank outside the hostel. I have tried my best to adapt but definitely appreciate not having to brush my teeth with bottled water more than I ever did in the States!

And lastly, but not least.....

  

14. The Lizard Problem

            During my first week in Ghana, I received the following text in our group chat: Can someone help me get this lizard out of my room? Though I haven’t had issues with lizards in my room because I’m on the third floor (or second in Ghanaian terms), other teammates have had them in their laundry buckets, behind their dressers and even on their beds. I think we’re finally starting to accept it as normal. Outside of campus, it’s a world full of roosters, chickens and goats too! I have not seen one rabbit or squirrel yet, but Rex confirmed they exist.

I can't think of anything that excites a greater sense of childlike wonder than to be in a country where you are ignorant of almost everything. 

                                                              - Bill Bryson

First Week of Classes

            I have officially finished my first week of classes at the University of Ghana! It was a full week figuring out the registration process, navigating campus and braving the mass number of students in my classes, but I have learned much!
           
            I’m getting a good feel for campus and am actually impressed with my ability to find my way around. Most everywhere I need to go is about a mile from my dorm, but I don’t mind the walk even at 7am. I see a lot of Ghanaian cultural aspects on my way to class. During my free periods, I usually hang out at the International Programs Office. The other Americans and I treat it like our study hall because our program leaders and buddies are often there. There are also computers that have great wifi, a fridge with cool, purified water, a printer and photocopier, and air conditioning. What more could we ask for?!
          
           I’m still figuring out my schedule and have until the end of February to do so, but my goal is to have a balance of both UG (University of Ghana) and USAC courses. USAC courses are facilitated by my program, meaning that I am with only American classmates and classes themselves are Americanized. Some courses, like Twi and Service Learning, are only offered through USAC. However, I also have a lot of options regarding Ghanaian courses. I want to experience what university life is like on a campus twenty times bigger than my “home” college 5,000 miles from it!


            Of the UG courses I plan to take is a French class. I began questioning my decision to sign up for it immediately as I entered the enormous (to me) lecture hall this morning. I didn’t know if I would understand the “Ghanaian French accent” or succeed in a “Part 2” course that is a continuation from last semester. However, some classmates calmed many nerves within the first minute of my arrival. I double-checked with them to make sure I was in the correct lecture hall, and, before I knew it, we were in a flowing stream of conversation! We discovered that we have the same level of French, as determined by international examinations. One of them also just studied abroad in France! We even exchanged WhatsApp information so that they can add me to the class WhatsApp group later.


            I am thankful that I have finally learned how registration for classes works in Ghana! It’s perhaps been the most difficult part to mentally understand so far. If the internet is cooperating, students first register online. Then they must go around to each department to look at the timetables. The timetables show what time class occurs. Sometimes, students are expected to attend each time slot listed, and other times they can choose one time slot to attend class. Most classes meet once a week for 2-3 hours, but tutorials, or discussion groups, are often mandatory outside of class. It can be hard to plan because timetables are often posted the morning of classes!

Other than registration, most of my challenging moments so far have been linked to internet issues and a water outage. The wifi was down all last week and is still very spotty. On top of that, I was also having laptop charger issues. I eventually discovered (after three days) that I can find a charger at the night market right across from my dorm. You live and you learn, I guess! Sunday evening I found myself sweating through yet another shirt as I ran up and down the stairs to the water tank. Despite the outage, I still needed to find a way to cook and shower. And I did!

         Thinking back to every instance where I’ve been frustrated, I realize it’s because I was trying live in my American comfort zone in Ghana. It just doesn’t work.  I’m used to having wifi issues solved within hours and driving myself to wherever I need to go whenever I need to go. It’s been a humbling experience having to ask my buddies help with even the simplest of tasks, but it’s comforting to see that what is so abnormal to me is normal for them. It’s not hard to check timetables or fill a bucket with water; it’s just different and confusing at first. On Monday, Esther and I walked back from the International House while relating what I learned in class to her life and laughing at all my “American moments” of the day. Then, we stopped at the night market and I bought my smoothie of the day! My new motto is “Fruit delights each day keep the adaptation blues away!”

My USAC program providers/support people at UG are doing a phenomenal job of helping us adapt to Ghana and showing us their country. Before classes started this past Monday, we visited both downtown Accra and the Ada Shoreline (about two hours from Accra). I really enjoyed the historical aspect of Accra. We visited the memorial for the first president of Ghana (Kwame Nkrumah) as well as the W.E.B Du Bois Museum. It was also refreshing to relax at the beach after a week of sitting in orientation, battling jet lag, and adapting to the fierce equatorial heat. We even got to take a boat to an island, from where we could see both the Atlantic Ocean and the Volta River. The ocean current was too strong for us to swim in, but the river water was the perfect temperature!

This weekend, we will explore a stilt village in the western region of Ghana. From what my program advisors say, it will be a humbling experience because it is in an impoverished area. We are to bring school supplies for the children as a gift. (It’s normal courtesy in Ghana for guests to bring gifts.) The intensity of courses really surfaces next week, so I am enjoying these fleeting moments seeing Ghana with my new friends!