Akwaaba! Welcome to Ghana!

A childhood fascination became reality as the plane descended onto the runway of the Kotoka International Airport mid-afternoon Saturday. Immediately, a rush of warm, humid air greeted me as I navigated the corridor towards immigration and then the baggage claim. With a fellow USACer who happened to have the same flight as me, we worked together to present our identification and immunization documents, find our baggage, exchange our dollars for cedis, and then exit the building to begin our new adventure.

That’s the word I would use to describe anything and everything right now – an adventure. From unlocking my door to ordering breakfast, everything requires patience. I already feel I could write a novel about my experiences here. I’ve tasted tropical treats (coconut, pineapple and mango), witnessed the pure craziness of the streets in Greater Accra, and caught a tro tro to a downtown market.

Legon, Greater Accra is a beautiful region of Ghana that is adapts to foreigners yet is undoubtedly rich in African culture. Legon means something along the lines of “hill of knowledge” and is home to the University of Ghana. UG is a beautiful, welcoming campus that receives about 40,000 students between all its campuses. UG receives its biggest concentration of international students from the United States, and I’m honored to now fit into that category! As much as I love the campus, I am not sure how I am going to find my way around. Not only is the campus five times the size of my college in the States, but every building looks the same! The only difference is the description of the building on the UG sign. Let’s just say it will be an interesting first few days!

 

Balme Library - The biggest library in all of West Africa is 

located on the UG campus

            One of the highlights about Ghana so far has been meeting our buddies. Buddies are native UG students that our program provides to help us navigate life here. In a group of nineteen Americans, five or so buddies are assigned to four or five Americans each. My buddy’s name is Edward. Besides picking us up from the airport, showing us around campus and taking us to our orientation activities, buddies commit their availability and assistance to us for the semester. Titles are very important to Ghanaians, so buddies like to refer to us as their brothers and sisters! One fellow American joked that without our buddies, she would still be wandering around Kotoka International Airport. I don’t think it is far from the truth though! We follow them like ducklings.

 Today, our buddies taught us how to catch a tro tro and took us to a big market. A tro tro is the main mode of mass transportation in Ghana. Basically, as many people as possible climb in a van, and off it goes to its destination. As one nears the tro tro stop, tro tro drivers will follow you, trying to convince you to ride with them. Sometimes you can predict where it will pass by and flag it down, but of course none of us Americans are that confident yet.

Outside markets are pretty much the Ghanaian version of Walmart. Once the tro tro dropped us off (in the middle of the street, of course), we entered what is called the Medina market. Many people were pulling at or touching us. Some wanted to feel our skin because we are "obruni" (Twi for a fair-skinned person), and others were trying to convince us to buy their product. Little children also ran up to us and clasped onto our arms, begging for money. Though it was a crazy, overwhelming experience, I am glad to have had it and will not forget it. I bought a hand towel, as bathrooms do not come with any supplies here, at one of the only inside shops available. I think all of us Americans were too exhausted to try and bargain on the streets! That is a Ghanaian principle we will learn another day.

Medina Market (with tro tros in the background)

Night Market - a two minute walk from my room and the perfect place for dinner!

 I also am pleased with the other Americans on my program. I think we all realize that one of our only escapes to western comfort lies in each other. Wifi is a 50/50 here, so communication with home is not always an easy option. We’ve all been great at asking each other for help and providing support, whether it be a few cedis to get someone a meal, a partner to walk with to the night market, or remembering sunscreen and/or bug spray when someone else forgot. Most of us share rooms with one other person on the team. My roommate is Megan from California. 

            Hot and humid captures the climate here. Feeling continuously sweaty, greasy and dusty is a fair exchange for not having to  deal with the cold though. It didn’t take me long to figure out that the necessities in Ghana greatly differ from what I once considered vital in the United States (phone, keys, wallet, charger and earbuds). Taking a malaria pill as soon as I wake up is becoming habit. Then, I throw sunscreen, insect repellent, hand sanitizer/wipes, a sun hat, toilet paper, and soap in my beautiful, colorful Ghanaian purse the university provided. After I fill up my water bottle with tap water and get a good start on the day’s hydration through my lifestraw, I am finally ready to consider going out on campus. I’m working hard to remember my phone and wallet too!

          Before I arrived in Ghana, I thought the worst traffic spot in the world was New York City. Dare I say that Accra, Ghana gives New York a run for its money? Most of the traffic flow here is controlled by roundabouts instead of traffic lights. Honking, stop and go, and people cutting each other off characterizes Ghanaian traffic. Nobody really stays in their lane as everyone weaves in and out of cars. Furthermore, if there happens to be a median or a stoplight (or even if there is not sometimes), people will come out to sell products. So far I’ve seen laundry detergent, pillows, water, and many other products. I haven’t made any purchases yet, but one buddy explained that you would just roll down the window, call the person over, and make the exchange. However, he added that everything changes when the light turns green! Somebody might be left without the product, payment, or change!

I’ve also learned that water is not simply for hydration purposes, but for the adaptation of the American stomach when white rice or bread is not around. Most Ghanaian food is spicy, especially the non-internationalized dishes. I’ve gotten what my Ghanaian buddies call the “non-spicy” version of most dishes, but even that would probably be considered mild in the United States. However, if one wants to stick to Ghanaian gastronomy but take a break from spicy dishes, tropical fruit is wonderful escape!

I was thrilled to find (and eat) this mango!

           Orientation continues up through Thursday. After we register for classes and learn a bit more about Ghanaian culture and life on campus, we will have the opportunity to explore downtown Accra and go to Ada beach! Today is the first day I am not feeling completely exhausted (thanks to an unintentional five hour nap yesterday), so I am hoping to sleep through the night. Classes start Monday!